Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Mounting Everest

Post Type :

 

clip_image001


Who mounts Everest the fastest?

If you climbed Mount Everest recently, the government of Nepal hereby requests your help. It seems that two "upwardly mobile" Sherpas are in a spat over who can climb the world's tallest mountain the fastest. So, a Nepalese government commission has asked for your summit photos from around May 21--the day Pemba Dorjee Sherpa says he went from base camp to summit in an inhuman 8 hours 10 minutes. Your photos could substantiate his claim.

What's that? You skipped Everest this year? Not to worry. KnowledgeNews can take you to the summit right now.

How to Climb Mount Everest


clip_image002

So you've signed up to scale Everest, at 29,035 feet (8,850 meters) the highest point on Earth. You've paid your permit fees, and for tens of thousands of dollars more, you've equipped yourself and hired a Sherpa to lead you up the mountain's south side.

You've got your ice axe, your glacier glasses, your climbing boots and your crampons, your ropes, carabiners and harness, and, oh yeah, your satellite phone. Grab your thermal socks, too. The top of the world awaits.

Base Camp
17,600 feet (5,400 meters)

For two weeks, you've been gently winding your way up Nepal's side of the mountain. The hike has been spectacular, spanning terrain dotted with modest farms, quaint villages, and Buddhist monasteries perched on bare rock. So far, the skies have been dominated by the Himalayas' snowcapped peaks, but as you enter base camp, Everest's black pyramid tip, looming two full miles above you, disappears from sight.

Your mission now is to acclimatize your lungs to getting less oxygen, an essential preparation for the climb ahead. To do this, you'll climb up and down the mountain between camps, a process you'll repeat until the final push for the summit. A too-rapid ascent can result in acute mountain sickness, a prelude to life-threatening high-altitude cerebral or pulmonary edema. The cure? Immediate descent.

Camps I & II
19,500 & 21,300 feet (6,000 & 6,500 meters)

On Everest, even getting to Camp I is treacherous. In your way: the legendary Khumbu Icefall. This is no hockey rink. Vast crevasses in the deep glacial ice are bridged by metal ladders, often tied together end to end to reach across. New crevasses constantly open up, and giant walls of ice collapse. You make your climb in the early morning, before the sun begins to warm and melt the ice and avalanches become more frequent.

After you make it to Camp I, you enter the wide, nearly flat "Valley of Silence," officially known as the Western Cwm (pronounced "Koom"--that's Welsh for valley). The days here in the Cwm actually can get insufferably hot, and the glare of the late spring sun off the deep snow can blind you. As you climb further into the valley, you must cross giant crevasses in the ice. It's here that Everest's forbidding summit comes back into view, and here that you make Camp II.

Camp III
24,000 feet (7,200 meters)

If you want to conquer Everest, first you've got to take on Lhotse, the massive mountain next door. That's because from Camp II, the best way up is the Lhotse Face, a 3,700-foot (1,100-meter) glacial wall pitched as steep as 80 degrees. You hold on to ropes scattered about the Face, kick the steel crampons on your boots into the frozen ice, and pull your body up. Not the most technically challenging climb. Even so, don't try this in bad weather. Many climbers have died scaling the Lhotse Face, their bodies plummeting down into a vast chasm at the base of the wall.

After hours of climbing, you reach Camp III, which sits on a precariously angled shelf of ice near the top of the Lhotse Face. Many Sherpas refuse to stay here, preferring to push on directly to Camp IV. Here you'll have to painstakingly carve your tent site into the steeply sloping ice. When you're done, you'll rest at a frightening and uncomfortable angle.

Camp IV
26,000 feet (7,900 meters)

More climbing, and ice gives way to rock. You make it to Camp IV. The good news? You're only 3,000 feet (900 meters) from the top. The bad? You're dying. So is everyone around you. You've reached an extreme altitude at which the human body stops acclimatizing and starts deteriorating. Climbers call it the Death Zone. Nearly everyone, including the hardy Sherpas, will use bottled oxygen now.

Camp IV is on the South Col, a rocky, wind-swept pass between Everest and Lhotse ("Col" is French for pass, and easier to pronounce than "Cwm"). Regardless of the route they take, all expeditions use this as the final camp before attempting the summit.

Top of the World
29,035 feet (8,850 meters)

You start the final push at midnight. First, you reach the Southeast Ridge, what climbers call "The Balcony." Dawn comes, and you ascend arduously to the South Summit. Last chance to turn back. From here, you must cross a knife-edge ridge in the sky. Misstep to the right, and you could fall 10,000 feet. Misstep to the left, and you could fall 8,000 feet. You rely on fixed ropes. Same goes for the Hillary Step, a four-story rock wall named after Sir Edmund (who scrambled up it without the fixed ropes you'll need).

Once past the Step, timing becomes critical, as you must descend in daylight. Your every step is labored and sluggish. Finally, exhausted and exhilarated, you're there, a snow-dusted spot no bigger than a dinner table. The panorama before you is astonishing. To the north lies the Tibetan Plateau. Himalayan peaks rise all around. You note the prayer flags and family photos others have left to mark their achievement, snap a few photos of your own, grab a rock, and quickly descend. Now the trick is to make it down.

Want to learn more?
Make a virtual assault on Everest
http://dsc.discovery.com/convergence/everest/interactive/interactive.html

From: KnowledgeNews


Doctors Are The Third Leading Cause of Death in the US, Causing 225,000 Deaths Every Year

 

This article in the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA) is the best article I have ever seen written in the published literature documenting the tragedy of the traditional medical paradigm.

If you want to keep updated on issues like this click here to sign up for my free newsletter.

This information is a follow-up of the Institute of Medicine report which hit the papers in December of 2005, but the data was hard to reference as it was not in peer-reviewed journal. Now it is published in JAMA which is the most widely circulated medical periodical in the world.

The author is Dr. Barbara Starfield of the Johns Hopkins School of Hygiene and Public Health and she describes how the US health care system may contribute to poor health.

ALL THESE ARE DEATHS PER YEAR:

  • 12,000 -- unnecessary surgery

  • 7,000 -- medication errors in hospitals

  • 20,000 -- other errors in hospitals

  • 80,000 -- infections in hospitals

  • 106,000 -- non-error, negative effects of drugs

These total to 225,000 deaths per year from iatrogenic causes!!

What does the word iatrogenic mean? This term is defined as induced in a patient by a physician's activity, manner, or therapy. Used especially of a complication of treatment.

Dr. Starfield offers several warnings in interpreting these numbers:

  • First, most of the data are derived from studies in hospitalized patients.

  • Second, these estimates are for deaths only and do not include negative effects that are associated with disability or discomfort.

  • Third, the estimates of death due to error are lower than those in the IOM report.

If the higher estimates are used, the deaths due to iatrogenic causes would range from 230,000 to 284,000. In any case, 225,000 deaths per year constitutes the third leading cause of death in the United States, after deaths from heart disease and cancer. Even if these figures are overestimated, there is a wide margin between these numbers of deaths and the next leading cause of death (cerebrovascular disease).

Another analysis concluded that between 4% and 18% of consecutive patients experience negative effects in outpatient settings,with:

  • 116 million extra physician visits

  • 77 million extra prescriptions

  • 17 million emergency department visits

  • 8 million hospitalizations

  • 3 million long-term admissions

  • 199,000 additional deaths

  • $77 billion in extra costs

The high cost of the health care system is considered to be a deficit, but seems to be tolerated under the assumption that better health results from more expensive care.

However, evidence from a few studies indicates that as many as 20% to 30% of patients receive inappropriate care.

An estimated 44,000 to 98,000 among them die each year as a result of medical errors.

This might be tolerated if it resulted in better health, but does it? Of 13 countries in a recent comparison, the United States ranks an average of 12th (second from the bottom) for 16 available health indicators. More specifically, the ranking of the US on several indicators was:

  • 13th (last) for low-birth-weight percentages

  • 13th for neonatal mortality and infant mortality overall

  • 11th for postneonatal mortality

  • 13th for years of potential life lost (excluding external causes)

  • 11th for life expectancy at 1 year for females, 12th for males

  • 10th for life expectancy at 15 years for females, 12th for males

  • 10th for life expectancy at 40 years for females, 9th for males

  • 7th for life expectancy at 65 years for females, 7th for males

  • 3rd for life expectancy at 80 years for females, 3rd for males

  • 10th for age-adjusted mortality

The poor performance of the US was recently confirmed by a World Health Organization study, which used different data and ranked the United States as 15th among 25 industrialized countries.

There is a perception that the American public "behaves badly" by smoking, drinking, and perpetrating violence." However the data does not support this assertion.

  • The proportion of females who smoke ranges from 14% in Japan to 41% in Denmark; in the United States, it is 24% (fifth best). For males, the range is from 26% in Sweden to 61% in Japan; it is 28% in the United States (third best).

  • The US ranks fifth best for alcoholic beverage consumption.

  • The US has relatively low consumption of animal fats (fifth lowest in men aged 55-64 years in 20 industrialized countries) and the third lowest mean cholesterol concentrations among men aged 50 to 70 years among 13 industrialized countries.

Lack of technology is certainly not a contributing factor to the US's low ranking.

  • Among 29 countries, the United States is second only to Japan in the availability of magnetic resonance imaging units and computed tomography scanners per million population. 17

  • Japan, however, ranks highest on health, whereas the US ranks among the lowest.

  • It is possible that the high use of technology in Japan is limited to diagnostic technology not matched by high rates of treatment, whereas in the US, high use of diagnostic technology may be linked to more treatment.

  • Supporting this possibility are data showing that the number of employees per bed (full-time equivalents) in the United States is highest among the countries ranked, whereas they are very low in Japan, far lower than can be accounted for by the common practice of having family members rather than hospital staff provide the amenities of hospital care.

Journal American Medical Association July 26, 2000;284(4):483-5

 

 


Facts

image


IQ test on war on Iraq

Here's some information worth knowing that you'll never get on CNN. Do you know enough to justify going to war with Iraq? Take the War on Iraq IQ Test:

1. Q: What percentage of the world's population does the U.S. have? A: 6%

2. Q: What percentage of the world's wealth does the U.S. have? A: 50%

3. Q: Which country has the largest oil reserves? A: Saudi Arabia

4. Q: Which country has the second largest oil reserves? A: Iraq

5. Q: How much is spent on military budgets a year worldwide? A: $900+ billion

6. Q: How much of this is spent by the U.S.? A:50%

7. Q: What percent of US military spending would ensure the essentials of life to everyone in the world, according the the UN? A: 10% (that's about $40 billion, the amount of funding initially requested to fund our retaliatory attack on Afghanistan).

8. Q: How many people have died in wars since World War II? A: 86 million

9. Q: How long has Iraq had chemical and biological weapons? A: Since the early 1980's.

10. Q: Did Iraq develop these chemical and biological weapons on their own? A: No, the materials and technology were supplied by the US government, along with Britain and private corporations.

11. Q: Did the US government condemn the Iraqi use of gas warfare against Iran? A: No

12. Q: How many people did Saddam Hussein kill using gas in the Kurdish town of Halabja in 1988? A: 5,000

13. Q: How many western countries condemned this action at the time? A:0

14. Q: How many gallons of Agent Orange did America use in Vietnam? A: 17 million.

15. Q: Are there any proven links between Iraq and September 11th terrorist attack? A: No

16. Q: What is the estimated number of civilian casualties in the Gulf War? A: 35,000

17. Q: How many casualties did the Iraqi military inflict on the western forces during the Gulf War ? A: 0

18. Q: How many retreating Iraqi soldiers were buried alive by U.S. tanks with ploughs mounted on the front? A: 6,000

19. Q: How many tons of depleted uranium were left in Iraq and Kuwait after the Gulf War? A: 40 tons

20. Q: What according to the UN was the increase in cancer rates in Iraq between 1991 and 1994? A: 700%

21. Q: How much of Iraq's military capacity did America claim it had destroyed in 1991? A: 80%

22. Q: Is there any proof that Iraq plans to use its weapons for anything other than deterrence and self defense? A: No

23. Q: Does Iraq present more of a threat to world peace now than 10 years ago? A: No

24. Q: How many civilian deaths has the Pentagon predicted in the event of an attack on Iraq in 2002/3? A: 10,000

25. Q: What percentage of these will be children? A:Over 50%

26. Q: How many years has the U.S. engaged in air strikes on Iraq? A: 11 years

27. Q: Was the U.S and the UK at war with Iraq between December 1998 and September 1999? A: No

28. Q: How many pounds of explosives were dropped on Iraq between December 1998 and September 1999? A: 20 million

29. Q: How many years ago was UN Resolution 661 introduced, imposing strict sanctions on Iraq's imports and exports? A: 12 years

30. Q: What was the child death rate in Iraq in 1989 (per 1,000 births)? A: 38

31. Q: What was the estimated child death rate in Iraq in 1999 (per 1,000 births)? A: 131 (that's an increase of 345%)

32. Q: How many Iraqis are estimated to have died by October 1999 as a result of UN sanctions? A: 1.5 million

33. Q: How many Iraqi children are estimated to have died due to sanctions since 1997? A: 750,000

34. Q: Did Saddam order the inspectors out of Iraq? A:No

35. Q: How many inspections were there in November and December 1998? A:300

36. Q: How many of these inspections had problems? A:5

37. Q: Were the weapons inspectors allowed entry to the Ba'ath Party HQ? A: Yes

38. Q: Who said that by December 1998, Iraq had in fact, been disarmed to a level unprecedented in modern history. A: Scott Ritter, UNSCOM chief.

39. Q: In 1998 how much of Iraq's post 1991 capacity to develop weapons of mass destruction did the UN weapons inspectors claim to have discovered and dismantled? A: 90%

40. Q: Is Iraq willing to allow the weapons inspectors back in? A:Yes

41. Q: How many UN resolutions did Israel violate by 1992? A: Over 65

42. Q: How many UN resolutions on Israel did America veto between 1972 and 1990? A: 30+

43. Q: How much does the U.S. fund Israel a year? A: $5 billion

44. Q: How many countries are known to have nuclear weapons? A: 8

45. Q: How many nuclear warheads does Iraq have? A: 0

46. Q: How many nuclear warheads does US have? A: over 10,000

47. Q: Which is the only country to use nuclear weapons? A: the US

48. Q: How many nuclear warheads does Israel have? A:Over 400

49. Q: Has Israel ever allowed UN weapons inspections? A: No

50. Q: What percentage of the Palestinian territories are controlled by Israeli settlements? A: 42%

51. Q: Is Israel illegally occupying Palestinian land? A: Yes

52. Q: Which country do you think poses the greatest threat to global peace: Iraq or the U.S.? A: ?

53. Q: Who said,
"Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter"?
A: Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...